Paddlewheel Power and Pumping

[Mark Parsons]

Greetings,

This is my first post. I have lurked around a number of similar blogs gleaning information along the way. Look forward to more interchange with like minded individuals. Especially, the engineer types I see listed in member data.

A little background. I own a custom engineered automated machinery and equipment design and manufacturing business in SW Ontario. My wife and I, 2 years ago built a log home cottage in the Upper Ottawa Valley on a beautiful 100 acre parcel. The decision was made to save the $20,000+ that it would cost to get grid electricity in and spend that, or preferably less, on sustainable, renewable home generated power. I have a low head creek resource (1.2 meter head) with lots of flow (summer low still over 300 liters / second).

After our decision to keep this retreat off-grid, my search for energy options extensified. Low head microhydro devices are a little rare. Only a couple of commercial options are available. Another constraint is that we wish to keep the creek as pristine as possible. Of course, any work in the creek requires permits that aren't likely to materialize.

To cut a very long story into a shorter one, I stumbled across a web site that piqued my curiosity about a device that claimed conversion of low head high flow sites into a high pressure low flow power stream. The device looked way too simple. After building a small tabletop mock up in the shop and testing it I was convinced it has the potential to significantly enhance our hydro electric resource. Continued testing and experimenting on the tabletop model and some hard thinking and extrapolation from the data produced a mathematical model of the phenomena.

Using this math model in a spreadsheet I designed and built a working model to serve 3 purposes. 1.) Prove the technology beyond any doubts and verify my model and hence scalability. 2.) Use the working model to provide my cottage with a clean grey water supply. 3.) Use the working model to test energy extraction devices.

Items 1 and 2 have been completed beyond my expectations. My working model was built with common items for under $400 in materials - less than the price of a good well pump - over a couple of weekends. The working model provides my cottage with 2.5GPM of water at up to 45PSI of pressure. All powered from my creek and without any civil works in the creek. The device floats on pontoons. Item 3 still needs some work. Hence my posting. I am hoping that I can collaborate and kick ideas around with other engineering types about developing this technology further for efficient energy harvesting.

If you can help please post questions / ideas. I have a lot of time into this and don't want to bore everyone with extensive explainations in my first post. To see the technology in principal and action, check out www.wildwaterpower.com . I am the 'Canadian fellow' mentioned on his site.

Thanks in advance for your attention.
Mark

[Mark Parsons]

Maybe some photos and further details will help to spark some feedback.

The first photo shows the 1-1/4" sch.40 galvanized pipe axle, hubs and spokes in place and the start of winding the 1" polyethlene tubing. Tubing is held in place on the SS forms using black wire ties. Overall dimensions of the wheel are 50 inches diameter by 60 inches in length. The paddles are 5/4" x 6" cedar deck boards.

The second photo shows the unit complete on my shop floor with 600 feet of 1" poly wound in 2 layers, and paddles, cradle and pontoons ready to float for testing. The intake scoop barely visible on right rear side is made from 3" ABS drain pipe necked down to the 1" poly tubing. The scoop is sized to fill the volume of each loop of poly with about 60% water. This device makes pressure even when turning very slowly. Wheel RPM's determine output flow volume. This unit requires about 1.5 m/s creek velocity to provide enough torque to make the maximum pressure of 45PSI for the number of loops in this model. More loops and / or larger wheel diameter equals more pressure. Larger tubing and / or faster RPM of wheel equals more volume. Scale up for application. How much power is in the Niagara River downstream of the falls? :eek:

The third photo shows the unit doing its job in my creek. It supplies power through a small impulse turbine when not supplying water to the cottage. :cool:

[Mark Parsons]

Just an update for the curious.

Floated the machine in April. The creek is really roaring this spring, so we used a bucket truck to crane the wheel directly into the creek after fastening the wheel to the cradle.

4 stout trees were located and the ropes were tossed across the creek to 4 men. Once the wheel gets into the current it starts rotating and pumping.

The water velocity provides about 4GPM from the paddlewheel. Up to the 45PSI limit of this pump. Lots to wash down all the quads and other trail running gear.

The second photo shows a air vent stand pipe I cobbled up and strapped to a nearby tree, to bleed the air from the pump output. An air vent valve is at the top of the stand pipe with a ball valve on the air outlet. The white garden hose at the bottom left is from the paddlewheel pump, and the green hose on the right is (de-air'ed) water to the cottage. Seems a shame to just vent this compressed air to atmosphere. I am still toying with the idea of routing this compressed air from the vent valve to a copper coil inside a cooler with an orifice at the outlet and get a few watts of cooling to keep some liquid refreshment ready to consume in summer.

[Mark Parsons]

A video of the Paddlewheel in action.
YouTube - Paddlewheel Power and Pumping

[Stewart Corman]

Poor Mark ...nobody wants to contribute to his thread,

Seems a shame to just vent this compressed air to atmosphere. I am still toying with the idea of routing this compressed air from the vent valve to a copper coil inside a cooler with an orifice at the outlet and get a few watts of cooling to keep some liquid refreshment ready to consume in summer.Did you miss the boat on this one??
how about cooling a frig or airconditioning a room with NO MOVING PARTS ???

At same time warm up your oven or bun warmer !!

Didn't you ever hear of a Hilsch Vortex tube??

"A vortex tube is a tool that can take normal compressed air and convert into two air streams. One stream is hot air and the other stream is cold air. The beauty of this device is that it has no moving parts , which translates into almost no maintenance. The cold air can be adjusted down to -50 degrees Fahrenheit, and the hot side can be adjusted up to a temperature of 260 degrees Fahrenheit."
higher the air pressure, the greater the temperature separation
too bad it doesn't work with water!
http://www.visi.com/%7Edarus/hilsch/Hilsch234.GIF


Commercial unit:
http://www.arizonavortex.com/vortex-tube/

Here is a DIY version:
http://www.makezine.com/blog/archive/2007/04/trick_your_friends_into_b.html

BTW, I have one ! (doesn't everyone ?)
(think it is this one:
https://secure.vortec.com/vortex_tubes.php)

But you have an unlimited source of compressed air for free ...
Mark ..you owe me on this one!

Stew Corman from sunny Endicott

[Mark Parsons]

Hi Stew,

Thanks for contributing to my thread. :) I thought nobody cared... :o

I put a Vortec product into an overheated electrical enclosure in 1984. Worked great other than the compressor oil dripping into the panel.

The smallest Vortec product (and most others) requires 8 CFM at about 80PSI for rated operation. (Do the math to generate this compressed air power and find that an electrical heat pump is much more efficient! Rule of thumb - 5CFM @ 100PSI = 1HP. The smallest Vortec product requires 8CFM @ 80PSI to generate 400btu/h equivalent to 130 watts but takes 900 watts to make the compressed air using an electric motor and screw compressor.)
https://secure.vortec.com/store_products.php?catID=13

Glad your thinking of a solution for me though. If I had multiple CFM I would quickly turn it into electricity using a sliding vane motor and an alternator, for uses more than just cooling.

Unfortunately, the size of my working model provides me with a puny 0.3CFM @ 45PSI.

Even the smallest Gast air motor requires about 1.5 CFM @ 40PSI to generate a decent amount of RPM and torque to drive an alternator.
http://www.gastmfg.com/pdf/airmotor/airmotor_catalog.pdf

Version 2 of the Parsons' Power Paddlewheel Pumper :D will harvest some of this energy into electricity.

For version 1 (primary purpose - cottage water supply) - the Joule-Thompson effect still gives me good cooling efficiency directly with the compressed air since it is already cooled to ambient water temp in the pump.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joule-Thomson_effect

Even at 0.3CFM @ 45PSI = a few watts of cooling should keep an ample supply of liquid refreshment cool... :cool:

But you have an unlimited source of compressed air for free ...
Mark ..you owe me on this one!

Very limited, but free. I owe you a cooled refreshment, collect at your convenience. :p

Any other ideas?

Regards,
Mark

[Rob Beckers]

Thanks for contributing to my thread. :) I thought nobody cared... :o


He Mark! We all care (I'm taking the liberty here of speaking on behalf of the silent majority, though I'm sure they all wanted to say the same). We're just in awe of the sheer genius we're witnessing! :eek:

Ah well, at least I am... :p

-Rob-

P.S. Do I get a cooled refreshment of my choice now too?
Personally I prefer slightly rotted barley juice.:D

[Mark Parsons]

Hi Rob,

I'm humbled beyond words. :o

Slightly rotted barley juice is also my favorite cooled beverage. I have been known to share these among friends with abandon... :D

Count yourself in.

Regards,
Mark

[Mark Parsons]

Just an update for those interested.

I spent my summer vacation getting running water operational in the cottage. Success!!:D

The paddlewheel provides 30PSI of pressure even in the low summer creek flows. I expect to get 40PSI in spring and fall.

It is very impressive to turn on a faucet or the shower and have pressurized water spraying out untouched by electricity. :cool:

I didn't get the solar hot water operational yet. The collector is on the roof but I still need to get it plumbed to the storage tank and heat exchanger in the basement. Hot water now is from the propane on-demand heater. Always too much to do and never enough time. :eek: Solar hot water is on the agenda to have completed before winter. I think I posted this schematic elsewhere on the forum but this thread seems a good spot to tie it in with the Paddlewheel Pump (Sling / Manumetric Pump).

Mark

[Ralph Day]

Very impressive Mark, congragulations.

Your place is definitely on the next tour!

ralph

[Stewart Corman]

Wow Mark,
We are sweltering here in the 90s and your cottage has snow already?
Looks nice and cool! gotta love that cool Canada weather ;)

Stew Corman from sunny and hot Endicott

[Tom Karasek]

We built on a 4MPH 20 foot wide shallow creek and I'd like to build a small power plant powered by a paddlewheel and generate about 5KW AC that I can tie to the power grid. I'm thinking a DC generator driving an inverter designed for RV use. Permitting will probably be a necessity. Be nice, too, if the plant wasn't a real eyesore as this is a pristine setting.

The only ready-made paddlewheel I have seen for sale on the web only puts out 150 Watts which at $2000 isn't worth the cost to me. The company has to plans to offer a larger unit and remarked that under-flow paddle wheels are quite inefficient.

[Dan Lenox]

Mark,

Very nice project, 100 acres I'm jealous!

One curiosity (I am a white water kayaker) any boater on the public waterways might possibly encounter your device and the lines used to keep it in position.

Do you have any warning signs up stream to warn boaters about potential obsticles? Nothing worse than getting tangled up in lines - It could save someones life!

Nice work.

Dan Lenox

[Mark Parsons]

Greetings Tom,

I'm surprised you found a source to purchase a paddlewheel. Who is it? As far as efficiency of any device harvesting kinetic energy from the fluid stream I believe a undershot paddlewheel to be only marginally less efficient than a propeller and probably more efficient than a Darrieus. A breast or overshot waterwheel harvests the potential energy and there I believe other methods are more efficient such as Pelton or Turgo turbines. Reference: http://www.energy.soton.ac.uk/hydro/waterwheels.html

If you have enough head I would recommend a low head propeller turbine like the LH1000 offerred by ES&D - http://www.microhydropower.com/ebrochure-01.pdf

I don't have enough head to operate the LH1000. I am in the process of building a propeller turbine to mount in a smooth wall culvert I've installed. I will be starting a new thread soon to post pictures and progress. This is to provide a freeze resistant solution and harvest power year round.

The sling pump paddlewheel described in this thread does a great job of providing my cottage with 45PSI water pressure from spring through fall. The lack of freeze resistance has pushed me into pursuing other options. I am also working on a ram pump solution that may provide year round water pressure.

What is the depth of your creek where it is 20 feet wide and travelling at 4MPH? Have you verified that 5kW is available to harvest?

Best regards,
Mark

[Mark Parsons]

Greetings Dan,

Thanks for the project compliments. I certainly enjoyed your project pages and am very impressed with your design and building skills.

The creek through my property is not designated a 'navigable waterway'. The whitewater section beside my cottage is only about 300 feet long. To get to the paddlewheel with the shore lines hazard requires ducking under my bridge just upstream. Clearance there is about 24" in summer and 6" or less in spring or high water periods. Any Kayaker or Canoeist needs a masochistic streak to portage around about 90 obstacles (beaver dams, waterfalls, fallen trees, etc.) in the 6 miles from headwater to outlet of my creek. In the 10 years we have owned the property I have only seen 1 young man (teen) attempting this feat with a companion (girl about same age) along for the ride in his canoe.

As I mentioned to Tom, I am working on a Hydraulic Ram pump that may replace the paddlewheel for cottage water supply. However, it would be with regret to disconnect the 'beverage' (read beer) cooler that uses the compressed air from the sling pump. I am also contemplating a hobby aquaculture project that would use the paddlewheel pump water.

Best regards,
Mark

[Dan Lenox]

Mark,

I have paddled many a 'non-nagivable' creek and stream in my years. Many of them ladened with trees and falled bridges, etc. I have paddled many a mile of near flat water because of the availability of put-in and take-out locations. BTW waterfalls are fun, I've done 20 footers, and creeks with barely enough water to float my boat.

My concern is more for those that may be very in-experienced and just jump into a canoe as they mearly see moving water and an opportunity for a 'float trip'. They typically don't even know what a low-headroom dam is, and just how dangerous they can be, that is until they are in it and can't get out.

Please consider putting up some sort of signage for those un-aware, myself I would hate to look back after an incident and wished that I would have done something as simple as signage... I say this here for you and all others that may have a creek/stream that they are considering to utilize.

I certainly appreciate your project and your efforts!

Dan

[Mark Parsons]

Hi Dan,

I will post some signs along my creek.

Thanks for the concern and pointing out the potential liability.

Mark

[Lee Sliman]

Mark, your floating paddle wheel pump is just the beast we have been looking for. We need to set up an irrigation system from a small river (about the size of yours), Solarpumping is too cost prohibitive at the moment. We also get violent high water and debris in the winter so stationary wheels are not an option. We also have endangered salmon runs but I think that screens could be added to the spiral tubing intake to screen out young fish. The paddles move slow enough I can't imagine they woud damage small fish. I think I can construct this thing, but would really like some help on the hub, axle and rotating assembly. I don't suppose you would be willing to flesh these out for me? Any drawings? Are you using the rotational shaft from the lurkertech site or have you made modifications? You are obviously way more versed in multiple machine functions than I could ever hope to be. :amazed: Also, I am wondering about the weight of this beast. If you were to build it again would tubular steel actually reduce the weight (concerned about getting it out of the river and also the lifespan of wooden structure. It looks like the floating wooden base might be easiest in wood as it could periodically be renewed without having to disturb the paddle wound section. We would be pumping up hill to tanks and then using those to irrigate from. Any construction info you could part with, we would be very greatful for. We have water rights on the property and power even runs nearby but the local utility district won't supply us power without a complete unlimited easement to the entire property (100acres) with exclusve unlimited rights to subleases. We said 'nuts to you' on that! :notrust:Chomping at the bit to make this the sinter project. Lee & Marlon

[Rob Beckers]

Hi Lee,

Welcome to the forum!
You couldn't know, but Mark passed away about 10 days ago. I've posted a note elsewhere about it (http://www.greenpowertalk.org/showthread.php?t=6074). If he was around, I'm sure he would have helped you!

I've seen Mark's paddle wheel pump in action; it works amazingly well. One part he doesn't mention (if I recall his posts) is that there's an automatic air-release valve. When the pump is at full full pressure (ie. enough flow to fill up the pipes and pressurize them) it tends to suck in quite a bit of air. He had a valve that would blow off the air, while keeping the water in, just besides the creek. It sounded like a whale blowing off steam! :cool: Besides that, we once went over the parts he used, and my recollection is that they were all 'stock' of some sort, nothing that was fabricated especially for this project if I recall.

-RoB-

[Ralph Day]

Hi Rob
My gut dropped this morning when i saw Mark's original post show up on the board. Perhaps the forum software can accomodate leaving your thoughtful memorium notice up on the "new posts"board for a while without requiring a reply? Or maybe if a reply is posted to any of Mark's threads it would pop up the mem notice? Just a few thoughts. He sure did have varied interests as reflected by the threads he started and participated in nést ce pas?

Ralph

[Rob Beckers]

Hi Ralph,

Unfortunately the forum software is not that smart. The new posts list is generated through a canned query and I would have to modify code to make it do anything different.

Getting reminded of Mark's departure can be painful for those that know him. I understand that. Then again, it is exactly because Mark was so prolific that his posts will continue to get referred and replied to. I believe that is a good thing, and I'm pretty sure Mark would be happy to see it. It would be great IMO if we can keep his memory alive by having people copy and extend on his projects and ideas.

-RoB-

[Lee Sliman]

The loss of Mark is very sad indeed. One didn't have to meet the guy to get a sense of his enegy, intelligence and drive! I checked out references to him on this site and others before I posted and was pretty much in awe at that point. Condolences to his family and all who knew hime. A terrible loss indeed.
Thanks for the info you gave, Rob, The stock piece I am really stumped by is the rotating shaft/axle coupling which must also act as a water conduit. The local plumbing supply looked at me with glazed eyes. dead end. Anyone out there familiar with pump fittings? or ? I'll stop by the pumpshop in the next county the next time I get close. I am a woman and have to say that the information I am able to get at local shop levels depends entirely on there being a non-sexist person behind the counter sometimes I get a curious person who is intrigued and willing to help and at other times I have actually been told to go home and send in my husband (of the two of us I am the one who repairs the equipment).
The lurkertech site gives and exploded drawing for a constructed coupling configuration but visually it appears that Mark put something different on his pump. Any help appreciated. Lee

[Rob Beckers]

Lee, I'll try to remember to ask my gas guy about the rotating coupler when he comes by to hook up a gas line to my new tankless water heater (he's also a plumber, and a good one). He was supposed to come this week, but of course no sign yet. That means I'll start bugging him to get the work done next week. When I know more I'll post.

-RoB-

[Paul Bailey]

Are made by http://www.deublin.com/. They are made in lots of differant styles and configurations and can last a long,long time. Paul:) (Rob : a gas swival coupling / connector is much different than a rotary fluid coupling although the idea is the same)

[Rob Beckers]

Rob : a gas swival coupling / connector is much different than a rotary fluid coupling although the idea is the same

My gas guy is also a plumber, so he knows 'water' couplings too. He's a good guy, but one never knows if and when he shows up to do the job. Still, he's cheap, and he does good work, so I put up with that. Now if only I can (finally) get my water heater hooked up... :wondering:

-RoB-

[Lee Sliman]

Thanks Paul. I've emailed Deublin and will follow up with a phone call! lee

[Dennis Buller]

Hey Guys,
If you are looking to go cheap, you can use a plastic or brass Yard Hose quick connect. Easily purchased at Home Depot, along with conversion pieces to go from hose thread to pipe. If it starts leaking, just replace o-ring.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=228719-306-09QCMGF&lpage=none

As for air release, I have used a cheap mechanical float valve in a six inch PVC pipe to release air whenever the water got to low. This keeps the pressure in the system even while still letting the air out....
Put the float too the bottom and every time it gets too low, air is released. To get it in the PVC pipe I had to cut and bend the float shaft.

http://www.zhengtaivalve.com/float_valve-ZT-3023.html

[Tom Karasek]

At the encouragement of my local public power utility, I visited a micro-power installation some distance form my home. He harvested 20A at 240V and had a grid interface designed around about six heavy relays. The same could be done with solid state now, but I haven't found an inexpensive grid interface device on the market. There should be a huge market for ones that worked for micro-hydro and for small residential solar and wind machines. The total applications boggle the mind and would add a quite significant number of megawatts to our national grid, once installed, or to currently operational regional grids like we have in the Pacific NW.

He also had 220 feet of head and I have maybe 15 feet. His generator (really a motor used as a generator, was driven by a turbine in an enclosed housing sprayed by two water jets fed from his water head pressure, roughly 100psi. I'd have to use a paddlewheel.

[Tom Karasek]

I can see how your wheel would pump but I'm not clear on how it amplifies pressure to 45psi.

I see another opportunity:

Prices are coming down for home installations of renewable power such as solar, wind, hydroelectric, etc. but no inexpensive device seems to be available to safely interface these installations to the power grid.

Laws exist requiring utilities to buy excess power from home installations and most installations do have excess power part of each day. Without a grid interface excess power is either wasted or converted to and from expensive battery banks.

I visited a home hydroelectric installation interfaced to the grid but the interface was composed of six large relays plus other circuitry to synchronize voltage, frequency and phase and the owner had to jump through hoops to get the utility and county to approve the installation. All that should be able to be accomplished with a solid state device approved for easy installation and sold through home depot type stores.

[Rob Beckers]

Tom, that's what today's grid-tie inverters do: Couple an RE source (such as hydro) to the grid. I agree that they are not really cheap, but on the other hand their prices are well within reach now for homeowners, and generally are just a small part of the total cost of an RE installation. Utilities and inspectors have no problem at all with inverters, as long as they are certified by the appropriate agency (ie. UL for the USA, CSA for Canada etc.).

-RoB-

[Tom Karasek]

Thanks Rob. I found several hits when I Googled it but didn't know what they were called.

$10,000, with about half the cost being the inverter is still pretty steep for a small 120V system. Mass production should bring that cost WAY down as the component cost is a very small fraction of that.

As homeowner when I built my house I was able to do 100% of the electrical work from the transformer in my yard to the outlets, so installation would not be a problem. Initial investment, however, still would have to be amortized over too many years. I'll apparently have to wait until the current suppliers finish skimming the market.

[Rob Beckers]

Tom, if I understand your numbers correctly you are looking for a 5kW inverter to grid-tie hydro. Those are under $4,000 (though not much under, and that price is for a 6kW since that's the nearest size). A Power-One Aurora wind inverter or SMA WindyBoy would do the job. They run at 240V split-phase.

-RoB-

[Tom Karasek]

Thanks for the info Rob. My point was that the components cost far less than the current market price. I think the cost will come down, hopefully soon.

At $4000 for the inverter plus a few thousand for the RE source, say $10,000 total and assuming no maintenance cost, a 6 KW installation at our present cost of about 5 cents/KWh, would take 30,000 hours of use, or about 3.4 years to amortize the cost. That also assumes full 6 KW output 24 hours a day, which is unlikely for wind and impossible for solar. Realistically at least double the amortization period or 6.8 years. Still not too bad an investment but not real attractive either. Government or utility rebates would improve the situation from the homeowner's viewpoint and somewhat from society's viewpoint but are unpredictable in the long run.

[Peter Mckinlay]

Hello Mark,

May I draw you attention to an 18th centuary paddle wheel design. used it to drive the German woolen mill. 5000Hp. Sorry no pictures.

In effect its a turbine without a casing. The blades in place of being flat are curved this doubles the energy output. Water hitting the curved blade runs up to a standstill then as the blade leaves the current the water flows back down the blade again pushing the blade.

When submersing make sure the water does no quash at the top of run as this will detract from energy output. Peter:)

[Tom Karasek]

Thanks Peter. I'll look into such a design.

[Peter Mckinlay]

Greetings,

This is my first post. I have lurked around a number of similar blogs gleaning information along the way. Look forward to more interchange with like minded individuals. Especially, the engineer types I see listed in member data.

A little background. I own a custom engineered automated machinery and equipment design and manufacturing business in SW Ontario. My wife and I, 2 years ago built a log home cottage in the Upper Ottawa Valley on a beautiful 100 acre parcel. The decision was made to save the $20,000+ that it would cost to get grid electricity in and spend that, or preferably less, on sustainable, renewable home generated power. I have a low head creek resource (1.2 meter head) with lots of flow (summer low still over 300 liters / second).

After our decision to keep this retreat off-grid, my search for energy options extensified. Low head microhydro devices are a little rare. Only a couple of commercial options are available. Another constraint is that we wish to keep the creek as pristine as possible. Of course, any work in the creek requires permits that aren't likely to materialize.

To cut a very long story into a shorter one, I stumbled across a web site that piqued my curiosity about a device that claimed conversion of low head high flow sites into a high pressure low flow power stream. The device looked way too simple. After building a small tabletop mock up in the shop and testing it I was convinced it has the potential to significantly enhance our hydro electric resource. Continued testing and experimenting on the tabletop model and some hard thinking and extrapolation from the data produced a mathematical model of the phenomena.

Using this math model in a spreadsheet I designed and built a working model to serve 3 purposes. 1.) Prove the technology beyond any doubts and verify my model and hence scalability. 2.) Use the working model to provide my cottage with a clean grey water supply. 3.) Use the working model to test energy extraction devices.

Items 1 and 2 have been completed beyond my expectations. My working model was built with common items for under $400 in materials - less than the price of a good well pump - over a couple of weekends. The working model provides my cottage with 2.5GPM of water at up to 45PSI of pressure. All powered from my creek and without any civil works in the creek. The device floats on pontoons. Item 3 still needs some work. Hence my posting. I am hoping that I can collaborate and kick ideas around with other engineering types about developing this technology further for efficient energy harvesting.

If you can help please post questions / ideas. I have a lot of time into this and don't want to bore everyone with extensive explainations in my first post. To see the technology in principal and action, check out www.wildwaterpower.com . I am the 'Canadian fellow' mentioned on his site.

Thanks in advance for your attention.
Mark

The most efficient water wheel was designed by German Army Captain in the 1800's it placed on the Rhine and powered the German woollen mill. The shape of the blade is unique!